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Bleeding, Maintenance and Troubleshooting
Terms and Conditions
CNC, Inc.
Bleeding, Maintenance and Troubleshooting
 
BLEEDING
We strongly recommend that you use a pressure bleeder with a rubber bladder that separates the air side from the fluid side. If this is not possible follow the following procedure:
  1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir 3/4 full with clean, fresh brake fluid.
  2. Push and hold the pedal down.
  3. Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, or wheel cylinder, until fluid is released. If you are bleeding a Dual Cylinder Brake Pedal Assemby you will need to open a bleeder screw on the front brakes and the rear brakes at the same time.
  4. Close the bleeder valve and release pedal.
  5. Wait three to five seconds and repeat.
DO NOT PUMP THE PEDAL
Pumping will only aerate the fluid and prevent complete bleeding. Complete your bleeding procedure all the way around the car. Bleed each caliper until clear, air-less fluid comes out of each bleeder screw. When finished be sure to run master cylinder only 3/4 full of fluid.

BRAKE CHECK LIST
  1. Do not exceed 1500 lbs pressure
  2. Use AUTOMOTIVE DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid only
  3. Bleed screws must be pointed up for proper bleeding
  4. Use grade 8 bolts for mounting
  5. Inlet ports are 1/8" pipe thread
  6. Seal all fittings with Loctite - NOT teflon tape
  7. Make sure wheels turn freely after bleeding
  8. Do not use your brake pedal as a foot rest
  9. Test drive
MAINTENANCE
Prior to each racing event or weekend out it is a good idea to follow this checklist to make sure your brakes are up to their maximum potential.
  1. Check for leaks around calipers, pistons, fittings and lines.
  2. Bleed once around the car to replenish the system with fresh fluid.
  3. Check pad wear.
  4. Make sure all wheels rotate in a drag-free condition.
PAD REPLACEMENT
When replacing pads you must clean the exposed portion of the caliper piston with brake cleaner or brake fluid before the piston is retracted into the piston housing. This procedure will avoid damage to the piston seals.

When the car is raced weekly, we recommend replacing the seals once at mid season and rebuilding between seasons. For lesser used cars, seal replacement between seasons is fine. Always flush the system with fresh brake fluid after any seal replacement or rebuild.

TROUBLESHOOTING

SPONGY PEDAL OR PEDAL BOTTOMS OUT
  • Air in brake system.
  • Calipers not bled with bleeder screws pointing straight up.
  • Wrong size master cylinder (too small).
  • Use of improper brake line. Too much braided or rubber hose.
  • Use of silicone brake fluid.
  • Faulty master cylinder.
  • Calipers not mounted square with rotor.
  • Excessive caliper flex.
  • Pedal ratio too great.
HAVE TO PUSH TOO HARD ON PEDAL
  • Wrong master cylinder size (too large).
  • Not enough pedal ratio.
  • Pedal mounted at bad angle.
  • Wrong pad compound.
  • Frozen piston in caliper or wheel cylinder.
  • Glazed pads and/or rotors.
LOSE YOUR PEDAL DURING RACE
  • Fluid boiling due to old or not enough fluid.
  • Excessive spindle deflection.
  • Undersized brake system.
  • Incorrect or faulty master cylinder.
  • Leak in caliper, wheel cylinders or lines.
  • Inadequate ducting.
  • Pedal linkage failure.
BRAKE DRAG
  • Faulty master cylinder.
  • Incorrect size of residual pressure valve.
  • Warped rotors.
  • Calipers not square to rotors.
  • Tapered brake pads.
 
CNC, INC.   1221 West Morena Blvd.   San Diego, CA  92110
619-275-1663     619-275-0729 FAX